How to Install an Anderson Sliding Door
Sliding doors are commonly used in the secondary exits of a home that lead to a backyard or back porch. If you are replacing a broken door or even upgrading a design, you can install an Anderson sliding door without hiring a contractor.
Assembling the Frame
Open the tube of silicone sealant that is provided with your Anderson sliding door unit. Apply a bead of sealant to the ends of the side jambs. Your bead should be about 1/8 inch and be applied to the unbeveled ends. Repeat for the ends of the sill, with the same size beading of sealant.
Place the sill ends in position against the side jamb ends. Screw the ends together in the pre-drilled holes, using the #10 screws provided with the unit and a flat-head screwdriver. Add the screws to the interior side jamb to the sill, then the exterior sill to the side jamb, and then the center sill. Wipe off excess sealant.
Apply sealant to the top end of the side jambs. Press the side jambs against the head jamb. Use the same 1/8-inch bead size as before. Screw the side jambs to the head jamb using the flat-head screwdriver and the #10 screws. In the pre-drilled holes, add screws to fasten the interior of the side jamb to the head jamb, the interior of the head jamb to the side jamb, the exterior of the head jamb to the side jamb, and the center of the side jamb. Wipe the excess sealant.
Place the side installation flanges, one at a time, into position on the grooves of the frame. The short leg side should point inward and be flush with the sill piece. Use a scrap wood block and the hammer to gently tap the side installation flanges until seated in the groove.
Place the aluminum head installation flange onto the head flashing, over the lip. Position the flange so that both of its ends are flush with the ends of the head flashing, and then snap in with gentle pressure.
Set the head flashing and flange section into the groove of the head jamb, making sure that there is overlap with the side flanges. Use the wood block and hammer again to tap into place.
Measure the doorway opening to ensure proper size. Measurements should be within 1/8 inches. Use the level to ensure the sill plate is level, adding shims if necessary.
Add a ½-inch silicone bead to the sill. Start 3 inches from the outside edge and continue across the bottom of the sill and then in the area between the side flange and the sill. Add ¼-inch silicone beading to the inside of the head, side flanges and the corners.
Place the Anderson sliding door frame into the doorway opening. Apply pressure to the sill to spread the sealant. Clamp the frame into place. Place shims above and below each clamp, in between the side jamb and the doorway opening.
Ensure that the side jambs are level and square and then fasten the shims in place using the provided fastening screws. Add temporary shims between the head jamb and the top of the doorway opening, and check again to make sure it is level.
Secure the entire frame to the doorway using the pre-drilled holes, #10 colored screws and appropriate screwdriver. Remove the head jamb shims and clamps. Remove the two screws in the head stop. Add installation foam into the entire area between the frame and the doorway and then add the exterior finish (provided) to the flanges. Make sure you leave a ¼-inch space around the whole frame. Complete the frame installation by adding a continuous bead of sealant around the frame between the exterior finish and the frame.
Installing the Sliding Door Panels
Insert the stationary panel, at an angle, from top to bottom. The top gets inserted between the screen guide and the parting stop, while the bottom is inserted over the sill guide and stationary jamb. Place the 2-by-4-inch board, with the two scrap blocks on each end for protection, diagonal against the stationary panel and opposite side jamb. This pushes the panel into the stationary side jamb.
Drill 3/8-inch-deep holes, using the drill and bit, into the panel. The holes in the sill insert will be your guides. Add the #8 gray screws into these holes, fastening the sill insert and panel together. Attach the head bracket to the stationary panel and head jamb using the pre-drilled holes and painted #8 screws.
Attach the stationary weatherstrip to the panel by applying a 1/8-inch strip of sealant. When placing the weatherstrip against the sealant and into position, it must touch the top and bottom back plugs. Drill 3/8-inch-deep holes into the panel using the holes in the weatherstrip as a guide. Add the #7 painted screws into the drilled holes and tighten.
Stand up the operating panel and place it in front of the opening, with the exterior side facing out. If your stationary panel is on the left, the lock side of the operating panel should be on the right, and vice versa for a right-side stationary panel. Place two of the handle hole plugs into the handle holes on the exterior side of the operating panel.
Lay your panel back down flat, with the exterior side facing up, and apply a 1/8-inch line of sealant up the vertical side 3 inches from the corner and across the bottom edge ½ inch from the corner. Place the operating weatherstrip in position and the bottom, flush with the bottom edge. Drill 3/8-inch-deep holes, using the holes in the weatherstrip as a guide. Use the #7 pan head screws to secure the weatherstrip in place.
Lift up the panel and place it into the frame. The rollers need to go on top of the sill rib. Tip the panel in and slide closed, holding the panel in this position until the head stop is reattached. Reattach the head stop to the head jamb, replacing the two screws you removed earlier, and then drill the remaining holes into the head jamb using the holes in the head stop as a guide. Add #8 screws into the holes and tighten.
Replace or add interior and exterior trim as well as any handle hardware you desire, following the manufacturer’s instructions.