Locate the main sanitary drainage pipe. Upflushing toilets can pump waste up to nine feet above them, so the toilet will need to be located within the nine feet of the main drainage pipe.
Using a proper TY connector, connect it to the main drainage pipe according to your local code restrictions. Do not use flexible piping. Use either 1-inch copper or 1-inch solvent-weld plastic piping to extend from the TY connector to the location of the toilet. Use only horizontal with a slight gravity grade or vertical positioning only. Do not make any diagonal lines.
Connect the discharge pipe to the toilet. The toilet will come with a rubber tube extending from it. Join this with the flapper-style check valve. The open part of the check valve needs to be facing the direction the piping will run, either left or right from the toilet. This discharge pipe will run 12 inches horizontally before going into a turn.
Place the discharge elbow over the flapper check valve and tighten with gear clamp.
Place two 45-degree elbows together so it is not a hard bend. Then run remaining piping to the connection made at the main discharge pipe.
Connect the toilet to a ½-inch water supply with copper tubing.
Draw with a pencil where the toilet will be mounted. Mark with the pencil the holes in the basin.
Remove the unit. Measure the intersection of the mounting hole 3/8-inch inward.
Drill holes two inches deep either in the concrete or wood floor, depending on the area the toilet is being set.
Replace the toilet. Connect all pipes back to the toilet. Screw the toilet to the floor, using the holes you drilled. Do not over-tighten or the porcelain base may crack.
Open the stop valve completely.
Plug the toilet in with the provided electrical cord into a 120V, 60 Hz, 15 amp receptacle.
Press the air button and allow the toilet to go through its cycle, then repeat.
Things You Will Need
- Toilet kit
- Measuring tape
- Read all directions from the manufacturer before installing.