Use the template provided by the manufacturer to mark holes on the wall where you will mount the shower unit. Using your marks as guides, drill pilot holes using the appropriate sized masonry bit. If the manufacturer does not provide a template, you should be able to remove the backing of the shower unit and use the backing itself as a template.
Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the shower wall to fit the copper branch pipe that will connect the shower head to the main water valve. Push the pipe through the hole, measure and cut to the proper length. Fit a stopcock to the end of the branch pipe inside of the airing cupboard behind the shower wall. The arrow on the stopcock should be pointing towards the shower head, away from the rising main.
Fit the T-joint to the rising main, only hand-tightening the cap nuts. Measure and cut an extra piece of connecting pipe if necessary to connect the T-joint to the stopcock, joining the branch pipe to the main valve. Once fitted, tighten the cap nuts and other joints well.
Mount the shower head to the end of the copper branch pipe, attaching the shower unit box to the wall on one side of the shower head where you have made your pilot holes. Connect the flexible spray hose to the shower unit and the shower head.
Make a hole in the ceiling between joists where you will mount the pull-switch. Attach the mounting board on which you will fasten the pull-switch backplate.
Run a piece of circuit cable up to the ceiling, running it through the mounting board. Leave at least 6 inches of excess cable at the switch position. For running cable, you can use plastic trunking and attach the plastic sheaths to the wall and ceiling, or run the cable in between studs behind the wall, up through the ceiling and down to the switch.
Attach the pull-switch backplate and strip the excess cable at the switch position, revealing one black wire, one red wire and a group of bare wires. Twist the bare wires together, the ground wires, and cover them with green and yellow sleeving before attaching them to the "E" terminal of the pull-switch. Then connect the red wire to the "L" terminal and the black wire to the "N" terminal.
Strip the cable connected to the shower unit, again revealing one black wire, one red wire and a group of bare wires. Connect the wires located on the shower unit to the "Mains" terminals of the pull-switch. The red wire should connect to the "L" terminal, the black wire should connect to the "N" terminal and bare wires should connect to the "E" terminal. All bare wires should be covered with green or yellow sleeving before attaching them to the terminal.
Things You Will Need
- Power drill
- Masonry bit (size dependent on unit manufacturer)
- 1/2 inch copper branch pipe
- 45 amp double-pole pull-switch
- Yellow and green wire sleeving
- This article assumes that you have already installed the basic plumbing for any type of shower. An electric shower will only use the cold water valve, so if you have not plumbed the shower yet, you will only need to plumb one cold water pipe from the main valve. If you are connecting an electric shower to plumbing designed for a regular hot/cold water shower, simply do not connect a hot water heater or turn off the water supply to the hot water valve.
- When using a masonry bit to drill pilot holes, place a piece of masking tape over the marks made on the ceramic tiles to prevent the bit from slipping.
- Always cover pipe ends with plumbers tape before connecting joints.
- Refer to the electrical diagram provided with your electric shower or to the resources section below if in doubt.