How to Antique Glaze Beadboard Cabinets
Change new beadboard cabinets into antique replicas by adding a two-step glazing process. Glaze is a translucent solution; mixed with paint, it creates a light stain. The glaze will outline and define the beadboard's look.
Things You Will Need
- Empty bucket
- Cleaning rags and sponges
- Old toothbrush
- Plastic sheeting
- Storage container
- Latex or rubber gloves
- Stir stick
- Paint rags
- Water-based polyurethane
Commonly used colors for cabinets include dark chocolate brown and rich ebony black glaze mixtures. The glaze technique will give a new, modern kitchen a true vintage feel.
Wash all cabinets to remove any dirty and debris. Grease, cooking stains and food spots will need to removed. Use a soft scouring pad for hard to remove areas. Use an old toothbrush to scrub between the beadboard grooves. Do not forget also to clean the base cabinetry.
Remove the cabinetry with a screwdriver. Lay doors and drawers onto clean plastic sheeting. Take off all the door pulls, knobs and additional hardware. Place all items in a storage container or bag.
Mix paint and glaze using a 1 to 4 ratio. Pour into a clean gallon bucket. Add slightly more paint for a more opaque look or less paint for an additional translucent appearance. Stir the glaze and paint mixture well with a paint stick.
Apply paint to cabinets using a chip brush. Use an old brush if possible; new brushes lose hairs that can stick in the glaze finish. Richly apply the glaze mixture; get the glaze mixture into all the grooves of the beadboard. Allow to set up for about 30 seconds. Wipe off the glaze mixture using a clean rag. Remove about 90 percent of the stain. Leave stain in all crevices of the cabinets. Move onto the next cabinetry piece and continue the same technique until all the cabinetry has been finished. Allow all glazed pieces to dry 24 hours. Remember to glaze both the front and back of the cabinets, as well as the base cabinetry.
Use a finishing brush and apply water-based polyurethane for additional protection. Apply the sealer with a fine finishing brush. Brush on light, even strokes. Do not apply heavily; the stain will run and form drips. Allow it to dry four hours between coats.
Put drawers and doors back onto the cabinet base. Add hardware onto the doors and drawers. Avoid washing cabinetry for 30 days; this will allow glaze and topcoat time to cure properly.
Try using different materials such as a sea sponge, plastic bag or newspaper to wipe off and manipulate the glaze. Always practice on an old piece of beadboard or cabinet door if possible. Wear latex gloves to avoid glaze getting on hands and underneath fingernails. Have rags available. The rags will saturate much of the glaze and will only be used a few times before they become too wet. Glaze all the cabinet fronts one day; glaze all the backs the next day.
Check out this related video from Homesteady on Youtube.
- The Art of Faux: The Complete Sourcebook of Decorative Painted Finishes; Pierre Finkelstein; 2007.
- Try using different materials such as a sea sponge, plastic bag or newspaper to wipe off and manipulate the glaze. Always practice on an old piece of beadboard or cabinet door if possible.
- Wear latex gloves to avoid glaze getting on hands and underneath fingernails.
- Have rags available. The rags will saturate much of the glaze and will only be used a few times before they become too wet.
- Glaze all the cabinet fronts one day; glaze all the backs the next day.
Julie Hampton has worked as a professional freelance writer since 1999 for various newspapers and websites including "The Florida Sun" and "Pensacola News Journal." She served in the U.S. Army as a combat medic and nurse for over six years and recently worked as the Community Relations Director for a health center. Hampton studied journalism and communications at the University of West Florida.