How to Restore an Oak Table

Restore an oak table to add life and beauty to a piece of furniture that was meant to last for decades. Oak is a hardwood that is strong and resilient when treated right. Stripping and refinishing an oak table is very time consuming and tedious. However, by removing all of the old finish and starting over with the wood's natural state, you can protect an oak table and keep it looking lustrous for many years to come.

Oak finish
    Strip wood
  1. Prepare your table by placing the drop cloth under the legs. Put on your rubber gloves. Pour the stripper into one of the metal cans and use the old paint brush to layer a thick coat of stripper on a section of wood approximately 2 square feet. Allow the solvent to work for 15 to 20 minutes. Use your scraper and remove the old finish, placing the excess in the second coffee can. Remove leftover traces of the old finish with steel wool, always following the grain of the wood. Wipe off excess finish with a rag often. Repeat this process until the entire table has been stripped.
  2. Sander
  3. Sand the table with 120-grit sandpaper. After all bad areas have been smoothed and all traces of the old finish are gone, sand the table with the 220-grit sandpaper, always following the grain of the wood. Wipe off all dust with the rags.
  4. Oak table
  5. Use a new brush to apply a thick coat of sand sealer and allow it to soak into the wood grain for a couple of minutes. Remove the leftover sand sealer from the surface by wiping with a rag and allow to dry completely. Sand the entire piece with 360-grit sandpaper. Wipe off any dust with a rag.
  6. Apply the polyurethane finish with your third brush using very thin, overlapping strokes. Allow each coat to thoroughly dry and sand again with 360-grit sand paper. Wipe off dust. Repeat this process for as many coats of polyurethane finish as you want.

Things You Will Need

  • 2 qt. liquid stripper containing methylene chloride
  • 1 qt. sand sealer
  • 1 qt. polyurethane
  • 1 package 120-grit sandpaper
  • 1 package 220-grit sandpaper
  • 1 package 360-grit sandpaper
  • 1 box #2 steel wool pads
  • 2 paintbrushes, 2-inch
  • 1 old paintbrush
  • 1 scraper, 2- to 3-inch
  • 2 large old metal coffee cans
  • 1 drop cloth
  • 1 dozen cotton rags
  • 1 pair rubber gloves


  • Plenty of fresh air needs to be available when working around strong chemicals. Filtered face masks should be used to prevent strong chemical fumes from entering your nose and mouth.
  • Wear long sleeves to prevent any chemicals from splashing onto your arms.

About the Author

Kate Eglan-Garton is a professional writer, literary agent and editor. Writing since 1985, she is a past business owner, interior decorator and magazine editor that has used her knowledge to write interesting pamphlets and magazine articles. Her education includes certification in writing, a degree in interior design and an associates degree in business.

Photo Credits

  • wood texture close up image by Dmitry Rukhlenko from Fotolia.com
  • cracked paint 1 image by Sergey Kolesnikov from Fotolia.com
  • Schleifmaschine image by Volker Gerstenberg from Fotolia.com
  • table image by Dmitry Nikolaev from Fotolia.com