How to Build a 10X10 Gazebo

A gazebo is a great addition to any garden.

The verticles and foundation

A charming gazebo can change the whole look of a yard.A charming gazebo can change the whole look of a yard.
It can add a sense of whimsy and a fairytale quality or a rustic, old world charm. Whatever your desired impact, a gazebo is a great and fairly easy project that can help you achieve that look.
Weeds growing through the floor can give your gazebo that wonderful abandoned look.

Measure the area where you want your gazebo. Remove any obstructions, rocks or branches above the location. Remove any plant life, including grass. This will prevent you from having to pull weeds that are growing up between the floor boards later. Many people choose to spread a vapor or plant barrier and gravel at this point, but that is up to you.

Your gazebo can have as many corners as you desire.

Dig a hole at the corner of your prepared area. The hole should be at least 18 inches deep and no less than eight inches in diameter. Try to level the base as much as possible. If you have wet soil, consider putting some gravel in the bottom of the hole. Place the 4x4 post in the hole and fill with concrete, making sure to keep the post plumb. Repeat this for all corners.

Measure the desired height of the floor. Many gazebos are raised up to 3 feet above the ground. The height is up to you. Cut 2x4s at the measured length and attach to the inside of the post so that the base of the 2x4 is at the top of the concrete around the post and the top of the 2x4 is at what will be the base of the floor.

The floor

Measure and cut 2x6s to fit in between the posts. If you are building a 10-foot square gazebo, consider sinking another post mid-way between the two posts that is cut off at the floor height for added stability. Drill and attach the 2x6s to the posts so that they are long side facing out and are flush with the outside edge of the post. Repeat this for all sides until your gazebo is totally framed in.

Measure and cut 2x6s to run between the ones you just attached. It makes the job easier if you attach some joist hangers to carry the 2x6 floor joists. These are little pieces of sheet metal that attach to the joist and frame and make it easier to assemble. Regardless if you use these or not, drill and drive two screws minimum through the outside of the frame 2x6 and into the connecting 2x6 joist. Place the joists no less than 16 inches apart.

Measure and cut the 1x6 pieces to fit the floor. For ease of assembly, have the pieces run straight from one side to the other in the opposite direction of the floor joists. Measure and cut a notch out of the pieces on the corner to allow them to go around the 4x4 post. Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting and attach with at least two screws for every joist.

Consider reinforcing the runner with a 2x4. Not necessary, but it doesn't hurt.

Build stairs for access. If you have chosen to raise the gazebo floor, you will need stairs. Build these by cutting runners out of 2x6 pieces. Measure the height and depth of the desired step and mark in a triangle on the runner, making sure to leave at least one-fourth of the width of the wood intact. Cut out the triangle. Cut the ends off the 2x6 at a 45 degree angle and attach to the Gazebo where desired. Make enough runners so that they can be placed no less than 24 inches apart for the desired width of your stairs.

Measure and cut additional 2x4 sections for a handrail. Screw these pieces into the posts at around 36 inches above the top of the floor. If you want to attach balusters, do so before you attach the 2x4 to the post for ease of installation. Cut and attach lattice to the sides of the gazebo from the ground to the top of the handrail if desired.

The roof

Measure, cut and attach 2x4 sections to the top of the posts in the same manner you attached the floor frame in Section 2 Step 1. This will form the frame of the room and keep the posts stable.

Decide on the desired slope of the roof and cut a notch out of a 2x6 at that angle and two inches deep. The length of the boards should reach to the center of the gazebo from the corners of the post and at the desired angle and continue to the length of any desired eaves. Although it provides a steep angle, a 45 degrees is easy to work with. Attach all 2x6 pieces to the posts and to each other at the apex of the roof. A block in the center eases this process.

If you want eaves on your roof, attach an additional 2x4 section to the 2x6 sections described in the preceding section. Measure, cut and attach 2x4 sections from the 2x6 to the pieces on the edge. These pieces should be placed at no less than 24 inches apart and run along the full length of all roof sides.

A good roof will keep your gazebo looking nice for years to come

Cover roof with desired material. Canvas provides a rustic or contemporary look, while shingles can give your gazebo a traditional feel. If you are using shingles or tiles, measure, cut and attach additional pieces of 1x6 to the roof joists attached in the above steps of this section. Attach the tiles or shingles to these pieces making sure that they overlap to help prevent large scale leakage.

Things You Will Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Saw
  • 4x4 posts, at least 10 feet to 12 feet long
  • Concrete
  • Drill
  • Screws
  • Joist Hangers (recommended)
  • 1x6 lumber
  • 2x6 lumber
  • 2x4 lumber
  • Lattice

Tip

  • A climbing plant like grapes or jasmine, when planted against the lattice will climb to the top of the gazebo in a fairly short time. This will give your gazebo that fairytale quality.

Warnings

  • Check with your local council before starting any such project for zoning and permit requirements.
  • Remember to always wear proper safety equipment, including eye and ear protection to help avoid potentially hazardous injury.

About the Author

Adrian Traylor began writing professionally in 2008. His work has been seen in various conference publications and academic journals including "Eyes on the ICC." He holds a Bachelor of Arts in political science from Texas A&M University-Kingsville, a Master of Arts in international negotiation from the Monterey Institute of International Studies and a L.L.M. in international law from the University of Edinburgh.