Find the slope measurements for each individual section, using the miter divider and following the manufacturer’s instructions. For each change in pitch, reposition the miter divider.
Write down each measurement and label in numerical order. As you measure, also label the sections on the wall.
Set your miter saw for the first piece of crown molding. Set the cut for half of what the actual measurement was and for either the left or right side, depending on where you start in the room. For example, if your slope angle was 30 degrees and you were working right to left, you would set the saw’s angle to 15 on the right.
Repeat the process for each crown molding piece and specific angle. Your angles should be cut so that they slope from the top edge downward. The meeting pieces should be made by a right-sided cut on the end of one piece and a left-sided cut on the end of another piece.
Cut transition pieces to help conform the crown molding pieces back to the straight sections after the angles. Set the saw to the left or right side as needed at the same angle measurement. Repeat for other transition pieces you need.
Cut your crown molding pieces that will run the horizontal lengths and meet with your transition pieces. One end of the crown molding will have an angle cut, while the other end will have a straight cut.
Apply the construction adhesive to the wall and to both the flat sides of the crown molding and the angled cuts where they will meet with each other. Wipe away any excess adhesive that might seep out.
Nail the crown molding, for extra support, at ¾-inch to 1-inch intervals. Your brads should be put into the concave part of the crown molding, which is the sunk in and the thinnest part that is usually in the middle.
Things You Will Need
- Miter saw
- Crown molding
- Miter divider
- Finish nail gun
- 1¼-inch finishing brads
- Construction adhesive
- If you make small mistakes in your cuts, use white or clear caulking to fill in the gaps.