How to Replace a Lid Switch on a Roper Washing Machine
Although the Roper front load washer is not Energy Star-rated, it is a sturdy, back-to-basics machine designed to offer extended trouble-free service. The washer is equipped with a number of washing cycles and half a dozen capacity settings. The machine is also fitted with a one-piece agitator, softener dispenser and a separate bleach dispenser. Although there is little that can go wrong mechanically, moist operating conditions and vibration sometimes cause the lid switch to fail. Fortunately, this part is available, and it takes less than an hour to replace.
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Unplug the washer's power cord from the electrical outlet and pull it away from the wall.
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Remove the two screws on the front bottom corners of the control panel with a Phillips head screwdriver. On some models, the screws may be covered by plastic clip-on end caps. Pull the end caps off from the top to access the screws.
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Slide a putty knife into the seam between the ends of the control panel and the washer. Pry the control panel upward with the putty knife to detach it if there are no attaching screws on your model.
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Rotate the control panel up and out of the way.
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Unplug the white wiring harness connector from the top of the machine by levering the catch out with your thumb and pulling the connector upward.
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Insert a flat head screwdriver into the slots on the front of the two gold-colored clips on either side. Push the screwdriver handle forward to unsnap the clips from the top of the washer. Remove the clips and set them to the side.
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Tilt the washing machine's outer casing forward and slide it away from the machine. Turn the casing on its back and lay it on top of a large bath towel.
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Remove the green ground screw leading from the door switch to the casing with a nut driver.
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Undo the two switch mounting screws with the Phillips head screwdriver. Pry out the metal clips that hold the wire harness to the inside cover with the flat head screwdriver.
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Adjust the jaws of a pair of channel pliers to fit over the white wiring harness connector. Squeeze the sides of the connector to disengage the clips and pull it out of the casing, along with the door switch.
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Snap the new lid switch connector into its recess. Secure the wiring harness to the side of the casing with both metal clips removed earlier. Attach the new switch to the casing securely with the two screws removed earlier and use the nut driver to attach the green ground wire onto the casing.
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Lift the casing and slide the front edge under the washer base frame. Push the bottom in with your foot. Align the two notches under the back with the two tabs on the base frame and lower the cover into place. Pull the back panel forward until it slots into the casing.
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Insert the ends of the two gold-colored spring clips into their recesses on the back panel. Lever the front of the clips down with the flat head screwdriver until they snap into place.
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Connect the control panel to the casing by plugging it back into the wire harness connector on top of the washer.
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Lower the control panel and secure it with the two screws removed earlier. Replace the end caps, if applicable, by aligning the lower clips with the slot in the bottom and snapping the upper clips back into place or simply press the sides of the control panel down to clip it back if there are no attaching screws.
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Plug the appliance back into the wall outlet. Push the washer back against the wall. Insert a load of laundry and turn the machine on to ensure that the door switch is working properly.
Writer Bio
After graduating from the University of the Witwatersrand and qualifying as an aircraft engineer, Ian Kelly joined a Kitchen remodeling company and qualified as a Certified Kitchen Designer (CKD). Kelly then established an organization specializing in home improvement, including repair and maintenance of household appliances, garden equipment and lawn mowers.
Photo Credits
- Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images
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