DIY Table Saw Stand

Michael Logan

Buying a stand for every bench-top shop tool you own can be expensive. This plan for building a table saw stand from wood can be adapted to virtually any bench-top shop tool for a sturdy, secure place to work. Add a set of locking casters and your stand becomes mobile. The money you save on stands just might buy another tool you'd like to have, and this is a good project for scrap lumber.


Your table saw may be the most versatile saw you own.
Table saw stand made of leftover lumber.

The base of the stand consists of four 2-by-4 legs each splayed at an angle of 7 degrees front to back and side to side. These are braced at about the midpoint with 1-by-4 planks cut at the same angle.

The legs are held together at the top by four 2-by-4 braces also cut to the same angle as the legs. These 2-by-4s are cut to measurements calculated from the base of the table saw.

Once these parts are assembled, 1-by-1 pieces are cut and added to the top pieces to surround the tool base. These pieces are cut and added to the stand with the saw sitting on the stand for a tight fit.

Measuring and Cutting

The stand is easily adaptable to many benchtop shop tools.

Set the saw on the floor and measure from the floor up to the table top. Subtract this from the desired finished height for the length of the legs. A finished height of 38 inches is good for a 6-foot-tall person. If you plan to add casters, subtract their height from the measurement as well.

Measure the length and width of the outside of the base and add 2 inches to both measurements. Add 3 inches to the width (front to back). These are the lengths of the top braces.

Use a compound miter saw to cut the legs, side braces and top braces. Cut both angles at once on the legs. The side braces only need one angle cut on each end. On the top braces, cut the end angles and then cut the top edge with a table saw at 7 degrees to make it flat and level.

Tape two or four 2-by-4s together and cut one end on the miter saw with the table and bevel set at 7 degrees. Measure from the angle end for length and cut the other end. If cut in pairs, mark the pairs and use one pair for the front and the other for the back. Make the second cut without removing the legs from the saw table to cut the same angles on both ends of the legs.

Set the miter saw bevel to 0 and cut the top braces. Once the top braces are attached to the legs, measure for the bottom braces and cut those the same way.

Set the table saw blade to 7 degrees and rip the top edge of the top braces.


The angles are your guides. Lay the front legs on edge on a work surface and set the front top brace on them. Line up the edges of the top of the legs with the brace. Clamp, drill pilot holes and attach the brace with three 2 1/2-inch wood screws in each end. Do the same with the back legs and brace.

Connect the leg pairs with the side braces. Stand them up, clamp the side brace in place with the ends of the side brace meeting the outside edges of the front and back braces. Drill pilot holes and put two screws each into the front and back braces and four into each leg.

Measure and cut the bottom braces, remembering to add 1 1/2 inches to the side braces to accommodate the thickness of the front and back braces. Attach the front and back braces first. Clamp in place, drill pilot holes and attach with 2-inch wood screws. Add the side braces.

Set the saw on the stand and center it on the braces. Cut 1-by-1 pieces to fit around the base and screw them in place after drilling pilot holes. The table saw stand is complete.