Dry fit the copper piping on either side of the ball valve. Pull the copper pipe out and clean it. Use Emory paper to sand the outside of the copper pipe until it's bright and shiny looking. Push a wire-fitting brush into both ends of the ball valve and twist it around to clean the inside of the copper tubing of the valve.
Brush paste flux on the outside of the copper pipe and the inside of both ends of the ball valve.
Push the copper pipe ends into the ball valve. Before starting to solder make sure the ball valve is in the open position. This means the handle of the ball valve is parallel to the copper pipe.
Light the propane torch. Hold a spool of wire solder in the non-dominant hand. Start heating up the copper pipe where it enters the ball valve on just one side. Watch the flux. When it turns brown and gooey in appearance and starts to bubble the metal is getting hot enough for the solder to flow. Touch the tip of the solder wire to the seam and watch for it to melt and flow completely around the seam. Repeat on the other side of the valve.
Things You Will Need
- Copper pipe
- Ball valve
- Wire-fitting brush
- Emory paper
- Paste flux
- Flux brush
- Propane torch
- Wire solder
- When the copper pipe and ball valve have cooled completely, take a paper towel and wrap it around the pipe where it meets the valve and rub vigorously to clean the excess flux off the pipe. Do this on both sides of the valve. If you don't clean off this flux, the acid in it will eventually eat through the copper and create a leak in the pipe.