Fujitsu Heat Pump Installation Instructions

The Fujitsu heat pump system transfers refrigerant through a series of copper pipe lines.

Refrigerant has a composition that is far colder than naturally occurring temperatures with the exception of regions dipping below zero. In fact, refrigerant actually absorbs and transfers heat from the surrounding outdoor environment right into the comfort of your home. Therefore, the homeowner only pays for the electrical expenses to power the Fujitsu heat pump system. You should already have an adequate, heating, ventilating and air-conditioning (HVAC) background before attempting to install the Fujitsu heat pump system. .

Select an indoor mounting position along a strong wall away from vibration. Choose a location without obstructions to the inlet and outlet ports where air can freely blow throughout the room. Locate the unit near a special branch circuit or an electrical outlet. Refrain from installing the indoor unit where it comes into direct contact with sunlight. Arrange the indoor unit in close proximity to an outdoor unit connection. Situate the unit with enough room to install a drain pipe. Allow clearance for maintenance servicing.

Locate the outdoor unit away from direct sunlight exposure, air drafts and dusty environments. Choose an isolated location away from regular traffic. Consider your neighbors well-being before selecting the outdoor unit placement. Allow clearance for adequate airflow, including all four sides surrounding the unit.

Cut a 3 2/16-inch-diameter hole in to the wall with a cut-off saw. Measure the range between the left and right center marks when cutting the wall hole, usually 3/8 inch below the wall hook bracket. Situate the wall hole with the outside end 3/16 inch to 3/8 inch lower than the inside wall.

Align the center wall hole with a carpenter's level. Customize the wall pipe to match the wall's thickness. Attach the wall pipe to the wall cap, then fasten the cap with vinyl tape. Feed the pipe through the wall hole. Cut the wall hole lower to allow the drain water to flow freely.

Install the wall hook bracket into its correct horizontal and vertical position using a carpenter's level. Secure the wall hook bracket to the wall hole with six mounting screws through the guideposts located near the bracket's outer edge. Listen for rattling at the wall hook bracket.

Connect the indoor unit piping into the direction of the wall hole. Then wrap the drain hose and pipe together with vinyl tape. Position the piping with the drain hose located at the bottom. Wrap decorative tape around the indoor unit's pipes in the direct, visible path. Dislodge and remove the screw at the left end of the drain hose. Then pull out the drain hose. Insert the drain house vertically toward the inside, then align the screw hole with the drain cock. Replace and retighten the screws.

Align the mark on the wall hook bracket, then remold the connection pipe. Secure piping bends at a radius of 2 3/4 inch or more from the wall. Hang the indoor unit on the wall bracket hooks after routing the indoor piping and drain hose through the wall hole.

Hook the indoor unit from the hangers located at the top of the wall hook bracket.

Install the wall spacer between the wall hook bracket and the indoor unit. Separate the indoor unit's bottom from the wall base.

Attach the outdoor unit wall cap to the wall pipe. Apply piping compound to the outdoor and indoor unit piping threads, then hand-tighten the joints. Match the center of the flare surface. Then tighten the flare nut with a torque wrench after air purging.

Customize the appropriate length of the connection pipe with a pipe cutter. Position the pipe downward to prevent the cuttings from entering the pipe and removing the burrs. Install the flare nut on to the pipe, then flare the pipe with a flaring instrument. Refrain from bending the pipes more than 90 degrees. Refrain from bending or stretching the pipe more than three times when routing around corners.

Place the outdoor unit on a mounting stand consisting of concrete blocks to minimize vibration. Refrain from setting the outdoor unit on the ground to prevent potential problems. Dislodge and remove the two mounting screws from the side of the outdoor unit with a Phillips screwdriver. Install the three front hooks and one rear hook into the connector cover, then re-install the two mounting screws. Tighten all fasteners.

Close the gas gauge's high-pressure side valve completely and do not turn it on until after completing the installation process. Verify the piping connections for security. Close the two-way valve and three-way valve fully. Establish connections between the gas gauge charge hose and the three-way valve charging port.

Open the gas gauge low-pressure valve completely. Turn on the vacuum pump and position it downward. Use a torque wrench to loosen the three-way valve flare nut, then listen for air and watch for the gas gauge settings to drop from minus to zero. Retighten the flare nut.

Open the two-way and three-way valve stems using a hexagon wrench. Torque the hexagon wrench with a value less than 2.17 feet per pound until it stops turning.

Tighten the two-way and three-way valve blank cap and charging port cap with a hexagon wrench.

Dislodge and remove the screws on the control box cover. Remove the control box cover. Secure the inner-unit wire harness and power supply line to the conduit holder with a lock nut and adjustable wrench. Reference the wiring diagram in the instruction manual that came with your unit to establish connections between the inner-unit wire harness and the power supply line directly to the terminal. Place the mounting screws through the guideposts on the control box cover. Then tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

Dislodge and remove the mounting screws from the conduit holder. Remove the conduit holder from its housing. Secure the inner-unit wire harness to the conduit holder with a lock nut and adjustable wrench. Thread the mounting screws through the conduit holder guideposts. Then install the conduit holder unit. Remove the screws and wire clamper separating the inner-unit wire harness from the terminal. Establish the necessary electrical connections from the inner-unit wire harness to the terminal by referencing the wire diagram in your instruction manual. Install the mounting screws through the wire clamper guideposts. Then tighten fully with a Phillips screwdriver.

Dislodge and remove the screws. Then remove the cord clamp to the indoor unit. Secure connections between the connection cord and the terminal by referencing the wiring diagram in your instruction manual. Insert the mounting screws through the cord clamp guideposts. Tighten fully.

Strip the wire ends with a wire cutter, then strip 15/16-inch wire insulation to expose the wire. Remove the terminal screws from the terminal board using a Phillips screwdriver. Bend the wire to form a loop that fits around the terminal screw with a pair of pliers. Place the loop on to the terminal board, and securely tighten the terminal screw with a Phillips screwdriver.

Overlap connection pipe and indoor unit pipe heat insulation for rear, right and bottom pipe lines, and secure them with vinyl tape, making sure no existing gap lies between both units. Butt the connection pipe and indoor insulation together, and bind them with insulation tape for left and rear pipe lines. Wrap the left and rear pipe housing with cloth tape. Secure the connection cord to the top of the left and rear pipe with vinyl tape. Bundle the left and rear piping with cloth tape, then drain the hose together over the range within they fit into the rear piping housing.

Secure the connection cord beside the connection pipe with vinyl tape. Use a saddle to secure the connection pipe to the outside wall. Fill the outside wall pipe hole with sealant to protect it from the elements. Secure the drain hose to the outside wall.

Things You Will Need

  • Cut-off saw
  • Measuring tape
  • Carpenter's level
  • Vinyl tape
  • Mounting screws
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Decorative tape
  • Wall spacer
  • Piping compound
  • Torque wrench
  • Pipe cutter
  • Flaring instrument
  • Gas gauge
  • Hexagon wrench
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Lock nut
  • Wire cutter
  • Cloth tape
  • Saddle

About the Author

David Gaines began writing professionally in 2010 for various websites including laminate construction companies, wholesale furniture companies, blog operators and sole proprietors needing promotional advertisements. Mr. Gaines attends Hillsborough Community College and is currently working towards an Associate of Arts in liberal arts. He plans on eventually obtaining a Bachelor of Arts in English.