Check the power supply to the stove. If nothing works and the light won’t turn on, it’s possible the fuse has simply blown or the circuit breaker needs to be reset.
Examine the wiring, both directly behind the range and the main connection in the house. If any of the wires have been burned, the connection is broken and your stove won’t function properly. If this is the case, depending on where the connection broke, you’ll need to purchase either a new power cord or terminal block.
Test your heating element. Depending on what kind of Whirlpool model you have, your element may be a standard surface burner, solid disc or radiant-heat. Whatever you have, be sure you turn off the electricity from the fuse panel before testing the element. Raise the stove-top off of the appliance; you may need to refer to your user's manual to see how to do this on your model. Use a Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter (VOM) to test the continuity; if the result is outside 19 to 115 ohms, the element needs to be replaced. Unscrew the element and replace it with the new one and then put the stove-top back on by reversing the instructions you followed to remove it.
Inspect the oven selector dial. If your range is working but nothing else is, there may be a faulty or loose connection. Again, make sure the electricity is disconnected before moving onto this step. Read your user manual to find out the location of the selector dial and how to access it. With your VOM, test the continuity of the switch contacts; the range scale needs to be set to "R X 1." Each pair of contacts connects to a different function. There should be a diagram inside the stove’s access panel that outlines the wiring system. If there is no continuity between the contact pairs, the dial needs to be replaced. Unscrew the dial, but leave the wires attached. Transfer each wire individually to the new switch, using the wire diagram on your panel as a reference. Mount the new switch and replace the cover.