The timer controls the wash cycles. If your washing machine is not moving on to the spin cycle, your washing machine won't drain. Your washing machine won't start the spin cycle if the lid is open. Close the lid. Check the lid switch, which lets the control board know that the washing machine lid is closed. Disconnect the washing machine from the power source and remove the main access panel. Test both switches with a multimeter, and see if they have continuity. If not, replace the defective switch.
Certain washing machines, especially Whirlpool-made machines, have motor couplers which turn the tub instead of a belt. The coupler is made of plastic and rubber and can break. Unplug the washing machine and remove the main access panel. Examine the motor coupler and see if it is cracked or broken. Replace the coupler since you normally can't fix it.
The pump pushes water out of the tub during the spin cycle. If water doesn't drain from the washing machine, see if the pump is clogged with fabric or lint. The pump can suck up small pieces of clothing, preventing it from doing its job. Scoop out the water from the tub, and unplug the washing machine. Remove the main access panel, and pull out any trapped objects using needle nose pliers. Check the pump pulley. If the pulley is frozen, the pump won't work. See if the pulley turns. If not, get a new one from a washer parts dealer. Replace the pump if any part of it is cracked or broken. You usually can't repair these parts.
The most common reason for your washer not draining is a clogged or kinked drain hose. The drain hose is connected to the back of the washing machine. Straighten the hose if bent. Replace the hose if you can't straighten it or if it's crushed. Remove the hose from the back of the washing machine, and scoop out debris with a plastic utensil. Verify that the standpipe is no more than 96 inches above the floor. Measure how much hose protrudes into the tub. If it's more than 4 inches, remove the excess.